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Burning questions?

FAQ: Wood Fires

Will the fireplace heat up the room?

Absolutely! They are designed to be both beautiful and functional. The firebox and lower flue are made from steel which is an excellent heat conductor. This produces both direct heat from the fire itself and radiant heat from the steel (and of course the perceived heat from the dancing flame and crackling logs).

Our fireplaces have are approved for CE certification and have been rated as having the following heating capacities:

  • The Aether: 8.2kW
  • The Hearth: 7.2kW

Both of these ratings are very powerful for open fireplaces and they are certainly powerful sources of heat. The exact heating capacity depends on many variables: the ambient temperature outside, the height of the ceilings in the room the fire is located, if the room has insulation in the ceiling and walls, how many and the size of the windows in the room and perhaps the biggest factor of all is the quality and amount of fuel you are using.

As an example;we have an Aether in our living room which is 60m2. It is an open plan room with high raked ceilings and sliding doors across the length of the main wall. It is a new home with good insulation.

The Aether does a cracking job of heating this space for us!

Heating Area Volume & Climate Zone

The required kW output required is primarily dependent upon the area to be heater and the climate zone in which you live.

The following rough guide assumes your ceilings are no higher than 2.4M:

  • Very Cold Zone: 1kW output required for each 8.5m²
  • Cold Zone: 1 kW output required for each 10m²
  • Cool Zone: 1kW output required for each 13 m²
  • Mild Zone: 1kW output required for each 16m²

Adjustment Factors

The indicated heating areas would be adjusted down by 5% for each of the following conditions: house built on pillars (non-slab), no carpets on floors, no drapes on windows or a ceiling height exceeding 2.4m.

Deduct an additional 10% if the area does not have ceiling insulation.

Please note that this is only a guide and individual home designs and situations may vary.

Can I really cook a pizza in it?

Yes! Read all about it on our cooking in your fireplace page.

How do I clean the fire?

Cleaning Inside The Firebox:

Our fires are designed to achieve an efficient and complete burn.  This means that after your fire has burned down you won’t be left with lumps of debris and coal, just a clean bed of ash.

All fires burn best with a bed of ash in the bottom for insulation so we usually only clean our fire once a month. When it’s time for the task we’ve made it simple for you.

There is an ash removal tray in the bottom of the firebox which you simply push to one side and let the ash fall out (into a container of some description, not on the floor).

The grate is removable so if you wish you can take this out for cleaning too but it’s not necessary.

Cleaning The Exterior Of the Firebox & Lower Flue:

The best way to clean the firebox exterior is with water and a scratch free glass polishing cloth. Just a light spray and gentle wipe down  (don’t scrub the fire) will keep your firebox free of fingerprints and dust. For extra greasy marks WINDEX works very well, use the method above.

Never use harsh products containing any kind of paint stripper and never scrub the exterior paint.

It is very important that the firebox is completely dry before lighting a fire as water on the paint surface will leave water marks if burnt while the firebox is wet. These can only be removed by touching up the paint so care must always be taken to ensure the firebox is 100% dry prior to operation.

If you have an outdoor fireplace please see ‘cleaning an outdoor fireplace’ below.

Cleaning an Outdoor Fireplace

Our outdoor fireplaces are coated with a zinc primer to prevent rust. Extra care will ensure the longevity of your fireplace.

If you live near a beach or if your fireplace is installed near your swimming pool, your fireplace will be more prone to minerals settling on the surface of the fireplace which can damage the paint over time if care is not taken to prevent this.

Follow these guidelines for cleaning & maintaining your outdoor fireplace:

  • Your outside fireplace must be installed in an area that is covered to prevent excessive exposure to rain
  • Keep it Clean – Accumulated dirt and debris can hold moisture and allow corrosion to occur even on a dry day. Periodically wiping down the firebox and lower flue following the steps outlined on the next page can help avoid paint damage in the long run.
  • Keep it dry – never light your fireplace when the surface is wet as the minerals in the water will stain the paint. If your fireplace has been exposed to rain always wipe down your fireplace prior to use, following the steps below to remove mineral deposits from the surface of the steel. Any minerals from the rain left on the steel when it is burnt will damage the paint.

CLEANING METHOD

All cleaning and maintenance must be done when the appliance is cool.

Do NOT use oven cleaners or abrasive products as they will damage the paint.

  1. Wipe all surfaces with a mild soap with a scratch free glass polishing cloth.
  2. For stubborn marks or grease use WINDEX and a scratch free glass polishing cloth. Don’t scrub the paint. Gentle pressure only.
  3. Wipe dry with scratch free glass polishing cloth.
  4. Ensure surface is completely dry before lighting the fire.
What type of wood should I burn?

Maximum load capacity:

  • No more than four large logs (not exceeding 110mm in diameter) at a time.
  • Untreated, air dried hardwood
  • Split logs with a humidity content of less than 20%

You can pick up great wood from Bunnings or most service stations. Just check the humidity content which is printed on the bag.

We recommend split wood rather than round logs as they burn better and are much easier to stack.

For more tips on wood and building the perfect fire head over to our blog.

For further information on sourcing appropriate wood for your fireplace check out the firewood association page for your country:

Firewood Association Australia

Wood Heat Association UK

How do I light an awesome fire?

What To Burn

Use dry split wood for best results. Using wet wood will result in a smoky fire that is hard to get started and gives off low heat. If you are drying your own wood keep in mind that wood only begins to dry seriously once it is split to correct size. Allow around six months for proper drying to take place. We recommend split wood rather than round logs as they burn better and are less prone to rolling away from the ember bed.

Before Lighting Your Fire

  • Check that the damper is fully open. The handle should be pointing down. The fire must be operated with the damper fully opened at all times.

Starting a Fire

You will need the following materials to build and maintain a good wood fire

  • a fire lighter or newspaper (do not use coloured or coated paper)
  • a handful of finely split, dry kindling in a variety of sizes
  • seasoned firewood split into a range of sizes.

The Most Reliable Method For Lighting Our Open Fireplaces

It is important to keep in mind that Aurora Fireplaces are open fireplaces and cannot be loaded or operated in the same way as a combustion (closed) fireplace. If you’re used to a combustion fireplace this method may take a little getting used to, however it is absolutely reliable, and when it is done properly there is almost no smoke right from the start.

The most important part of this whole process is to use dry, seasoned firewood. The fire works by having the coals and embers from the top layer fall into the layer of wood below it. If the wood is wet it won’t catch on fire and you’ll become frustrated.

  1. Place two split pieces of timber approximately 40mm thick x 300mm long on the firebox floor with the ends facing front and back. Placement with the ends facing front and back allows the air to mix well with the fuel, rather than just hitting the sides of the wood.
  2. Place a fire-lighter or one piece of scrunched up newspaper in-between them.
  3. Stack two pieces of kindling approximately 30mm thick x 300mm long on top of the bottom pieces criss crossing in the other direction.
  4. Follow this by stacking a third row of fine kindling 20mm thick x 300mm long on top, criss crossing in the other direction.
  5. Repeat step four.
  6. Light the fire lighter or paper and watch as the fire burns down through the fine kindling and the kindling into the bottom pieces of split timber.
  7. Once the timber is well alight start adding more 40mm thick pieces of timber 1 or 2 at a time, slowly increasing the timber size as the fire burns hotter.
How hot to touch are they?

The firebox and lower flue both get hot when they are burning – that’s part of why they heat the room so beautifully. You should therefore not touch the fire when its burning with bare hands but we don’t recommend you touch your oven or kettle when they are hot either.

This is common sense to most adults but if your concern is regarding children we get it.

Our children were four and five years old when we installed our Aether and I was worried about accidents too. But, I quickly found that even very small children know not to touch it. Just like they understand not to touch the oven when you’re cooking.

Of course, whilst we are very happy to report that none of our children or our customers’ children have suffered a burn from our fires we don’t recommend leaving young children alone in a room when any fireplace is burning.

We should add that the feedback from our customers is that the children are the biggest fans of the fireplace in the household. Take a look at this video to see just how much fun kids can have with our fires!

If you would like to ensure children are kept safely away from the fire when it’s hot, please visit our accessories page to view our range of fire guards.

Do sparks escape when it's burning?

The shape of the firebox channels the smoke from the fire away from the opening and up the flue.Our grates are designed to allow a generous fire bed away from the opening. There is a slight dish to the grate which shows you where to build the fire. This dish keeps logs where they should be – in the centre of the fire bed fuelling the burn rather than from rolling away from the fire. This design creates an easily maintained smoke free fire – with no escaping sparks or debris.

However, just like with any open fireplace, we don’t recommend leaving it unattended if you leave the house or go to sleep. If you would like the freedom to leave the fire safely unattended you may like our spark guards. You can find them on our accessories page.

Do I need to have the flue cleaned regularly?

In the interests of safety and to reduce air pollution, both the fireplace and flue must be kept clean.

Follow these guidelines from the Australian Home Heating association to keep your fire well serviced.

  • Your wood heater should be serviced once a year and you should have your flue cleaned regularly by your local chimney sweep.
  • Service your heater during Spring or early Summer. This minimises the corrosive effects of creosote residue and condensation during the off-season.
  • Check for bird nests in or near the flue system in the roof cavity.
  • If loose insulation has been added to the ceiling i.e. blow in cellulose, etc, check carefully that none has built up in the flue cavity clearance area.

To find a chimney sweep in your area visit the Home Heating Association Website.

Australian Home Heating Association

New Zealand Home Heating Association

HETAS – UK Solid Fuel Association

Are there special instructions for the first burn?

IMPORTANT FOR YOUR SAFETY & THE LONGEVITY OF YOUR FIRE

Your fire is delivered to you already cured in a curing oven, which greatly reduces the smoke & odours associated with the initial burn. However the paint will still continue to settle over the first few burns. Therefore it is important that you follow the initial burn instructions to maximise the life of your paint and for your own comfort and safety.

The fire’s heat-proof finish only hardens completely once the initial burn process is complete. When unpacked, it is therefore not fully hardened. It can easily be damaged at this time so care must be taken to protect the paint prior to the initial burn.  Once this initial firing process is successfully completed, the coating will bond to the metal with a colourfast finish that will last.

NOTE: During the initial firing process there are changes in the paint causing it to give off an odour and some visible smoke. The fumes can be unpleasant. Do the following BEFORE you fire the fire for the first two times:

1. Ventilate: Open doors and windows in the room with the stove. To speed dissipation of odour from the initial firing process, you can place a fan in the room to move the air.

2. Vacate: The fumes from the initial heating process are non-toxic, but may be uncomfortable for babies, small children, pregnant women, elderly, pets, or anyone with breathing difficulties.

3. Clean. Wipe down the firebox to remove any dust or fingerprints. You won’t have to do this prior to every burn once the paint is fully cured.

INITIAL FIRING PROCESS

1. Slowly build up a small to medium size fire, over a period of 45 minutes. The outside of the firebox temperature will be about 200 degrees C. The fire will measure approximately 300mm diameter. Allow the fire to die down and allow the firebox to cool.

2. Repeat this process, increasing to a medium sized fire (approximately 350mm). This will burn at around 230 to 250 degrees C. Allow the fire to die down and allow the firebox to cool again.

Your firebox paint will now be cured and any unpleasant odours will be gone.

What can’t I burn?

Now we assume you won’t be inclined to use your beautiful new fireplace as an incinerator but just in case you have a guest who swears it’s fine to burn coal, here is a list of what you should never burn in your fireplace:

  • Trash
  • Painted plastic
  • Coated or preservative treated wood
  • Waste or black coal
  • Inflammable liquids
  • Fire gels
  • Moist wood with a residual humidity content of more than 20% (this may cause soothing of the chimney). Yes, this does mean that you can’t use the branch from that tree you trimmed in your garden last weekend.

FAQ: Bioethanol Fireplaces

What is Bio Ethanol?

Bio Ethanol is denatured ethanol, also known as ethyl alcohol, denatured alcohol or grain alcohol. It is a biofuel which can be derived from plants including corn, wheat, barley and sugarcane.

Denatured Ethanol is a renewable resource, when it’s burning there are no harmful emissions, so it’s very safe for the environment and the people who are using it.

What are the emissions when burning Bio Ethanol?

The result of combustion of Bio Ethanol is water, steam and carbon dioxide. The ratio of CO/CO2 passes standards for flue less gas fireplaces and the amount of Carbon Monoxide is negligible.

Will the fireplace heat up the room?

Yes, our firebox’s & lower flues are made from steel which is a brilliant heat conductor.

Our Bio Ethanol fires are efficient because they are flue-less which means all the heat stays in the room rather than most of it being flued outside as residual emissions.

If you have chosen a fully flued Wood/Bio Ethanol fireplace we recommend burning your Bio Ethanol fire with the damper closed which enables your fire to deliver beautiful ambient heat – that doesn’t escape up the chimney.

Can you extinguish the fireplace before the fuel has all burnt?

Yes, you can turn your fire off at any given time even before the fuel has run out. It is recommended however, that you leave it to burn until it runs out. The shut off mechanism is there for security and safety for those times when you need to leave the house as it’s not safe to leave a fire unattended.

How do I clean the Bio Ethanol burner?

All of the stainless steel can be cleaned using a soft cloth and some liquid stainless steel cleaner. Once all of the fuel has been burnt and the Burner is cool, you can run hot tap water through it for a few minutes to remove any traces of the Bio Ethanol.

How long will Bio Ethanol burn for?

In general 5 Litres OR 11/4 Gal of Bio Ethanol would last from 7 hours on MAX and up to 20 hours on MIN setting.

Can I cook in the Bio Ethanol Fire?

No. It won’t taste very nice and we don’t want you to get your burner all gunked up with pizza and marshmallows.

If you love the idea of cooking in your fireplace from time to time but like the idea of Bio Ethanol too you should consider our Wood/Bio Ethanol Hybrid fireplace.

Learn more about this versatile fireplace on our Bio Ethanol Options page.

Is Bio Ethanol environmentally friendly?

Bio Ethanol is classed as being easily biodegradable; miscible in water and when it burns the residual emission is carbon dioxide and water steam. It is completely composed of biological products resulting in a neutral ecological balance. Some fuels are better than others, it’s important to source information on the best fuel in your area you’re your local retailer/distributor.

Does it smell?

Bio ethanol has substances added to it in order for it to be labelled de-natured. The burning of these substances may cause a slight smell upon initial lighting and will dissipate with time. There is also a slight smell once the flame is extinguished – similar to when you blow out a candle. The smell will soon dissipate into the air.

Do the Bio Ethanol only models require an external flue?

No.

How do you light the fire?

Our Instruction Manual that accompanies the fire outlines everything you need to know to operate the Bio Ethanol burner safely and efficiently. Lighting the Bio Ethanol burner is as simple as dip, ignite, dip – just follow the instructions and seconds later you can enjoy a healthy, warm flame.

Where do I get Bio Ethanol?

You can purchase Bio Ethanol in standard packaging of 1, 2, 4 and 20 litres from Supermarkets, Hardware Stores, Petrol Stations, and Corner Shops. Contact The Fire Company for more information and ask about our fuel supply service in your area. http://www.thefirecompany.com.au.

Some fuels are better than others, it’s important to source information on the best fuel in your area from your local retailer/distributor. Where available we recommend e-NRG USA  AUS.

How much does it cost to run?

The cost of 1 litre of Bio Ethanol varies depending on place and quantity of purchase. On average you look at AU $3.85* per litre so if you are running your fire on medium and on 2 litres, this is a cost equivalent to having a couple of cappuccinos each evening! (*Price subject to change).

Ordering & Delivery

Where can I find a price list?

We are in the process of completing our online shop but in the meantime you can find all our prices on the following pages:

I want my fire now! How long is the lead time?

We ship every two weeks. Depending on where we are in our two week cycle we can generally ship your fire within two weeks of receiving your completed order form and payment.

Some months (such as winter) can become very busy so if you have a time critical delivery date we suggest placing your order and paying a 20% deposit to secure your desired delivery date.

Download our order form here:

Order & Measurement Form

I love them! How do I order one?

We are working on our online order page but for the time being you can download the order form below and email it to us. We will be in touch with a shipping date and will send you an invoice.

You can pay via EFT or give us a call and we’ll take payment over the phone.

If you can’t download the form no problem, just get in touch by phone or email and we’ll email you the form straight away.

Order & Measurement Form

What happens if the goods have been damaged in the course of delivery?

All goods should be checked and signed for upon delivery. Notification of any damage or defects must be made at this time and replacements will be supplied at the earliest opportunity. Where goods are being collected from our warehouses, these must be checked and signed for at the time of collection. Any notification of damage thereafter will not be accepted as evidence of damage at the time of collection.

FAQ: Certification & Legal

Are the fires covered by a warranty?

Yes. All our fires are covered by a five-year warranty that you can download here.

Our fires are built to last and you can have faith in the long term durability of your fireplace well beyond the five-year warranty period.

Aurora Suspended Fires will of course honour any warranty claims for a product that left our workshop faulty. (This is very unlikely). However, sometimes issues you experience with the fire are due to a faulty install. That is why is is very important that your installer follows the steps outlined in the manual in the correct order.

To support you in ensuring your installer follows these steps we have included an installation checklist at the back of the installation manual. This document MUST be signed off by the installer and returned to Aurora Suspended Fires at the time of install for any warranty claims that can be linked to installation to be honoured.

Please see the FAQ below to find out more about the installation checklist.

5 Year Warranty

FAQ: Troubleshooting

My fire is smoking - help! (don't worry we've got you covered)

The first step if your fire is smoking is to check you have followed the instructions in your manual & outlined above for what to burn and how to light an awesome fire. Still have a problem? Try the suggestions below and if these don’t work see below; ‘Why your installer MUST follow the steps outlined in the manual.

SMOKEY FIRE SOS

Is your damper fully open?

Our fires are open fireplaces and MUST be burnt with the damper fully open at all times. The damper is just there as a courtesy to allow you to close the flue off when the fire is not in use. So all the lovely warm air stays in the room rather than escaping up the flue.

Too Much Wood

Too much wood will at once will overload the cowl and flue system with smoke, causing smoke spillage into the room. Check the recommended load, fuel type and guidelines for building an effective fire on the previous pages of this manual.

Too Little Wood

An undersized fire will not create enough draft in the flue, allowing the smoke to spill into the room. The fire will not heat up effectively enough to circulate the convection air.

Crack a window

Fireplaces require large volumes of air to burn. This air comes from inside the living area and must somehow be replaced. With modern energy efficiency concerns, most houses have been carefully insulated and weather-stripped to keep out the cold drafts, but an undesirable side effect is that there is often nowhere for all that air leaving through the chimney to get back in. This can lead to fireplaces that burn sluggish and smoky. To counter that, open up a window a crack and sit closer to the fire.

This works best if the window is on the side of the house that the wind is blowing from. We want to push air into the fire and up the flue, not suck air out of the fire into the room.

Turn Off Exhaust Fans

When the an exhaust fan is on, air is drawn into the return vent and competes directly with the air needs of the fireplace. Air (smoke) will be pulled into the room.

Do you need a specialty cowl?

Your fire has been shipped with an anti downdraft cowl which also functions as a rain cap. This is the best type of cowl for 90% of installations. In certain situation you may require a specialised cowl designed to combat the weather and landscape/structural conditions of your installation. Contact a qualified installer for advice on the right cowl for you.

The Prevailing Wind & Topography Of the land

The slope and position of the land and surrounding buildings or trees in relation to the flue system has a bearing on how the wind will interact with fire and flue system. Wind that hits the flue system may overcome the cowl and draft back down the flue. Care must be taken to ensure that the flue termination is in the correct position to maximise performance. This is why we recommend having a professional wood fire installer install your fire if possible.

Why you MUST ensure the installer follows the steps in our manual

The feedback from installers is that our fires are very simple to install. However, there are a few key steps that must be followed in the correct order to ensure your fire both looks and performs the way it is intended.

Most installers are very meticulous and do a great job. If your installer is installing one of our fires for the first time they may not be aware of the importance of following the manual exactly.

To support you in ensuring your installer follows these steps we have included an installation checklist at the back of the installation manual. This document MUST be signed off by the installer and returned to Aurora Suspended Fires at the time of install for any warranty claims that can be linked to installation to be honoured.

You can download the install manual below. The checklist is on page 24.

Aurora User & Installation Manual, All Products

FAQ: Planning & Installation

Who Should Install My Fireplace?

Each State/Country has different guidelines about the qualifications needed to install a fireplace.

Essentially there are two groups of professionals that can install a fireplace:

  • Qualified Solid Fuel Installers
  • Certain Trades (plumbers, builders etc.)

As the compliance & performance of your fireplace depends on correct installation we recommend using a qualified installer who will know the regulations and be able to position your fireplace for maximum performance.

Of course your builder is also more than qualified to install the fire too. If your builder is installing your fire,please give them a copy of the install manual ahead of time and have them call us to talk through any questions.

Our fires are actually surprisingly simple to install, the step by step process is outlined in the Installation Manuals below. You can also find a list of qualified installers that have experience with our fires on our Find an Installer Page.

Find an Installer


Aurora User & Installation Manual, All Products

How do I work out where I can safely position my fire?

If you choose to have an installer put the fire in for you they will come to your home for a site inspection free of charge. They will work with you to ensure that your chosen position is compliant and also positioned for optimum performance.

Download a copy of our install manual & clearance distance worksheet. If your good with things like this all you should need is a tape measure & your imagination.

If you’re like me and struggle with spatial challenges, you may like the way one customer told me worked well for her.

  • Cut out a circle of cardboard 900mm in diameter. This is your new fire!
  • Cut a piece of string the length of your required clearance (see the install manual for distances to combustibles vs non combustibles).
  • Position your ‘fire’ and use the string to check your clearance distances.

If you’re not sure you’ve got it right dig out a copy of your plans & email us a copy showing where you intend to put the fire and we will be very happy to help you out.

Order & Measurement Form

I have combustible walls; can I reduce the minimum clearances safely?

So you want the firebox to be 100mm from the wall but it’s made of gyprock, timber etc.?

Don’t fret. You have a few options.

Of course you should always consult with a qualified builder about the best solution for your home but we have outlined the way that the majority of our customers tell us is the simplest and most cost effective.

Visit our Reducing Minimum Clearances Safely page for a step by step guide.

Can I install these fires outdoors?

Absolutely, we use a zinc based paint for outdoor installations and they are very popular outdoors. They make a great pizza oven too!

What size are the mouths of both fires?

The Aether Opening Is As Follows:

W: 842 x H: 172

The Hearth Opening Is As Follows:

W: 600 x H: 230

What’s the difference between the Aether & the Hearth?

Both models function in the same way and the diameter for both is 900mm. The differences are as follows:

Hearth:

  • 7.2kW rating
  • Has a rounder shape
  • The opening is deeper allowing more of the flame to be visible from directly in front of the fire
  • The larger opening of the Hearth makes it a popular choice for outdoor installations where customers wish to cook in it

Aether:

  • 8.2kW rating
  • Has a more angular clam shell shape and has a more ‘modern’ look
  • The opening is narrower and wider making it a popular choice for corner installations as more flame is visible from the side
  • That’s about it in terms of difference so it really comes down to your personal aesthetic.

Does the external flue require bracing?

The installer, who signs off on your install will make this decision as every installation is different.

The Australia/New Zealand standards require the following:

Brackets shall be spaced along the length of the flue system at intervals not greater than the following:

  •  For a flue with NO offsets (vertical) bracing must be placed every three metres.
  •  For a flue system with offsets bracing must be placed every two meters.

Do you make a fire with doors? (Combustion)

No not yet. This is under development but we cannot provide an estimated delivery time for combustion fires at this point.

Do you have any smaller fires?

Not yet but we are expanding our range every year.

We encourage you to signup for our newsletter (the orange box at the bottom of the home page) to keep up to date with our latest products.

Or check out our upcoming products here: New Products – Coming Soon

How much will my installation cost?

You will need to negotiate the cost of your installation with your installer. Each installation is different and costs will vary depending on the complexity of the installation. For example; if your installation will require the flue to go through a second level above or the use of offsets to run the flue outside and up to the roof your installation is likely to be more expensive than average.

As a rough guideline; installations can range from $700 for a very basic install to $2,000 for a complex install.

How do I work out the measurements you need for the flue & ceiling bracket?

If an installer is putting the fire in they will take your measurements for you. Give them the measurement form to fill in while they are there.

Your builder can also do this for you.

If you don’t have a builder or an installer it’s time to get out the plans. If you’re not sure you’ve got it right email us a copy of your plans showing where you intend to put the fire and we will be very happy to help you out.

Order & Measurement Form

Do I need council permission to install a fireplace?

Do I need approval for a solid fuel heater?

Yes. Before you install a solid fuel home heater you will need council approval. In Australia this falls under section 68 of the Local Government Act 1993. The application form can be found on your local council’s website  or at the front counter at your local council’s Administration Building.

To gain approval from Council you will need to:

Complete the application form (in Australia this is a section 68 Activity Application form).

Heating Appliance Details to be submitted with the application:

  1. Make and model for appliance –  two copies.
  2. Manufacturer’s details for appliance – two copies.
  3. Details of installer.
  4. Position of heater (including diagram)
  5. Location of flue penetration in the roof

Council will use the information you provide to confirm that you are installing your fire as per the relevant standards. If you follow the guidelines laid down in our installation manual you’re fire will be compliant.

Aurora User & Installation Manual, All Products

What are the dimensions of your fires?

Both our current models fire boxes are 900mm in diameter

The flue is 165mm diameter

For more specifications see our user & installation manual below.

Aurora User & Installation Manual, All Products

How much does it weigh?

Weight of Individual Components:

Firebox: 55kg

Ceiling Bracket: 27kg

Lower Flue: 13kg per meter

Do I need a floor protector?

You need a floor protector if you are installing over a combustible floor, i.e. timber.

For more information see our floor protector ideas page. This will give you more information on the requirements and some great ideas.

Will my ceiling trusses need any reinforcement to suspend the fire?

No, not usually.

The ceiling bracket base plate is bolted onto timber, spanning your trusses, to allow the drop box to hang down through your ceiling.

The ceiling bracket must span across at least two ceiling trusses.

Where possible you can span the load over four trusses. This is not essential as most ceiling trusses have plenty of tolerance to support the combined weight of the fire when the load is shared across two trusses.

The combined weight of the firebox, ceiling bracket and lower flue is between 110 – 160kg (depending on the length of your lower flue).

In some circumstances additional bracing may be required.  This information is provided as a guideline only, it is essential that you seek advice from your installer or builder who will be able to inspect your property and advise you of the bracing requirements for your installation.

Do you have a gas option?

No not yet. We are in the process of developing a gas model but this will not be ready until late 2017 or early 2018.

We do have a range of Bioethanol suspended fires that provide many of the benefits of gas without the complex installation requirements.

For more information on these check out our Bioethanol Suspended Fires page.

Where can I view a fire in person?

Jump over to this page for a list of venues you can visit to get a closer look at our range.

Display Venues

Where can I find brochures, installation manuals & measurement/order forms?

FAQ: New Zealand

Some parts of New Zealand have clean air bylaws – can I install your fires here?

Yes!

The National environmental standards in New Zealand for Air Quality prescribe a design standard for wood burners in urban areas. These standards outline emission and thermal limits that woodburners must meet in order to be approved for installation in urban areas.

However our fires do not fall under this standard as they are open fireplaces and are therefore exempt from this legislation.

Our fires have been tested in accordance with and meet the requirements of ASNZS2918 & ASNZS4013 section 1.2.3 (f) and are classified as exempt appliances.

Our certification states:

Both appliances are exempt from the relevant emission legislation since the maximum carbon dioxide output from the combustion chamber is less than 5% by volume when tested in the manner prescribed in the appropriate standard.

Some regional councils in New Zealand do have bylaws that prohibit open fireplaces, however, a large percentage of our customers are in New Zealand and so far we are not aware of any customers that have been unsuccessful in passing their fires through council.

Below are some of the ways an open fire can be approved if you live in an area with regional bylaws banning open fireplaces.

  • If the fire is going in an outside area (deck, patio, verandah & some open sunrooms) it is permitted to be installed without building consent, although you may still need a resource consent.
  • Cooking appliances are exempt from this legislation, our fires make a great pizza oven so if you intend to use our for cooking you should state this on your application to council. Check out our ‘Cooking In Your Fire’ page for more info on cooking in your fire.
  • Our fires can also be classed as a decorative fire – ie, not intended to be used as the primary heat source. They do have an
    8.2kW rating which is very powerful for an open fire so they certainly can be used as the primary heat source. But if
    you have alternative heating in your home you could apply to council for permission to install it as a decorative fire.

Familiarise yourself with the information below before you speak to council. You can access the below information here:

What is a wood burner standard?

All wood burners installed after 1 September 2005 must have:

  • an emission of less than 1.5 grams of particles per kilogram of dry wood burnt as measured in accordance with AS/NZS 4013:2014
  • a thermal efficiency of not less than 65% as measured in accordance with AS/NZS 4012:2014.

What do I need to know?

  • From 1 September 2005 the New Zealand design standard for wood burners applies to all units installed on properties less than 2 hectares in lot size.
  • The standard applies only to wood burners. It does not apply to:
    • open fires
    • multi fuel burners (eg, coal)
    • cooking stoves
    • pellet burners.
  • New Zealand also has to honour the Trans Tasman Mutual Recognition Agreement (TTMRA) with Australia which says they can sell their products here and vice versa. The Australian wood burners are made to an emission limit of 4.0 g/kg with no efficiency requirement, so they do not always meet our standard. The 2 Ha rule means that Australian burners may still be legally sold in New Zealand.

Can I install an open fire?

Where do I get a building consent?

Download this step by step guide for applying to council for consent to install a solid fuel heating appliance.

Applying For Building Consent. Solid Fuel Appliance (NZ)

List of Approved Installers New Zealand Find out more

If you have any queries regarding any of the above please email woodburners@mfe.govt.nz.

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